Butterfly Bear

While not a true butterfly, this little bear loves to play dress up as one! She may not be able to collect pollen, and her wings don’t really work (they are removable after all), but Butterfly Bear doesn’t seem to mind. After all, not being a real butterfly means she never went through that awkward caterpillar stage! Just like a real butterfly, this bear loves hanging out with her flowering friends- I guess you could call her a social butterfly!

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Difficulty: Advanced Beginner

U.S. Terminology

Size: 5 inches seated from the top of the head down

Materials

  • Hook: 3.5 mm
  • Yarn: Worsted Weight: Approx. 120 yards- Fur Colour, Turquoise, Pink and Yellow (or any 3 colours for making the dress, antennae and wings), small amount of white (I used Impeccable by Loops and Threads for all components)
  • 10 mm Safety Eyes or Embroidered Eyes
  • Embroidery Thread for Nose and Mouth
  • Polyfill
  • Needle
  • Scissors
  • Optional: Stitch Markers and pins (highly recommended though!)

Other Notes:

Magic Ring alternative- If you do not feel comfortable doing a magic ring, you can also chain 2 and work the indicated number of stitches into the first chain.

Continuous Rounds– Each row is completed in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated.

Body Stuffing– The dress is written to fit a body that is stuffed firmly.

Standing Double Crochet- This stitch is used instead of a SL ST and CH 2 when attaching new yarn to create a DC (if you feel more comfortable using the aforementioned approach, do so, counting it as a stitch). To start the stitch, wrap your yarn around your hook first, then insert your hook through the first stitch. YO and pull through (3 stitches on the hook). Complete the rest of the stitch as if it is a regular DC.

Wings– Wings can be made single sided or double sided, depending on your personal preference. Single sided wings will be thinner and slightly smaller due to the lack of the extra slip stitch row. Please see the notes before beginning the wings section for construction options.

Invisible Decrease– This decreasing stitch helps to prevent gaping holes when making your amigurumi. If you do not feel comfortable doing an invisible decrease you can single crochet two together (SC2TOG) instead. Check out this great blog post on creating an Invisible Decrease

Colour Change– When changing from one colour to another, in your final SC stitch after you have 2 loops on your hook, pull through with your new colour. In the next stitch of the next row, a SL ST is worked as it creates a more seamless colour change that is not as obvious.

Pattern:

Muzzle:

In white colour yarn:

R1: 6 SC into MR, SL ST to first stitch (6 st)

R2: INC SC around, SL ST to first stitch (12 st)

FO, leaving a long tail for weaving. Stitch on nose and mouth in shape that you prefer. See image further below for nose and mouth stitching.

Head:

In fur colour yarn:

R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)

R2: INC SC around (12 st)

R3: (SC, INC SC) x6 (18 st)

R4: (2 SC, INC SC) x6 (24 st)

R5: (3 SC, INC SC) x6 (30 st)

R6: (4 SC, INC SC) x6 (36 st)

R7-R13: SC around (36 st)

R14: (4 SC, INV DEC) x6 (30 st)

Insert safety eyes between rows 10 and 11, 8 stitches apart. Before attaching backings, check that the muzzle you made previously will fit between the eyes. Adjust eye placement accordingly and add washers to the back.

R15: (3 SC, INV DEC) x6 (24 st)

Start stuffing and continue stuffing for subsequent rounds (make sure it is firm)

R16: (2 SC, INV DEC) x6 (18 st)

R17: (SC, INV DEC) x6 (12 st)

FO and weave in yarn ends. Pin muzzle between safety eyes, with the top of the muzzle in line with the top of the eyes. Sew to the head and weave in ends.

Ears: (make 2)

In fur colour yarn:

R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)

R2: INC SC (12 st)

R3-4: SC around (12 st)

FO, leaving a tail of yarn for sewing. Flatten ears and pin to the head between R4 and R8, or in a position of your preference, sewing in place and weaving in the ends.

Headband:

You can make the headband smaller or longer based on your preferences by increasing or decreasing the starting chain.

In turquoise colour yarn:

R1: CH 20, HDC in the 3rd CH from the hook and across remaining CH stitches (18 st)

FO, leaving a tail of yarn for sewing. Pin the headband to the head in a position of your preference (make sure to pin at 3-4 points along the headband to help maintain its shape) and sew in place. Weave in the ends.

Antennae: (make 2)

In pink colour yarn:

R1: 4 SC into MR (4 st)

R2-4: SC around (4 st)

SL ST to the first St and FO, leaving a tail of yarn for sewing. Pin each antenna in place to the headband, 4-5 stitches apart (or in a position of your liking), and sew in place, weaving in the ends.

Body:

In fur colour yarn:

R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)

R2: INC SC around (12 st)

R3: (SC, INC SC) x6 (18 st)

R4: (2 SC, INC SC) x6 (24 st)

R5: (3 SC, INC SC) x6 (30 st)

R6-10: (30 st)

R11: (3 SC, INV DEC) x6 (24 st)

R12: (2 SC, INV DEC) x6 (18st)

Start stuffing, making sure to stuff firmly as you finish subsequent rounds, otherwise your butterfly costume may be too big.

R13: (SC, INV DEC) x6 (12 st)

R 14: SC around (12 st)

FO, leaving a long tail of yarn and sew to the bottom of the head. Weave in the ends.

Arms: (make 2)

In fur colour yarn:

R1: 5 SC in MR (5 st)

R2: INC SC (10 st)

R3-R4: SC around (10 st)

R5: (3 SC, INV DEC) x2 (8 st)

Stuff tip of hand lightly

R6- R9: SC around (8 st)

To close, pinch sides closed and 4 SC across through top of stitches of both sides. Finish off, leaving length of yarn. Pin arms to either side of body, 2-3 rows down from where the body meets the neck and sew on. Weave in the ends.

Dress:

In turquoise colour yarn:

R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)

R2: INC SC around (12 st)

R3: (SC, INC SC) x6(18 st)

R4: (2 SC, INC SC) x6 (24 st)

R5: (3 SC, INC SC) x6(30 st)

R6-7: SC around (30 st)

R8: In BLO, SC around (30 st)

R9-R12: SC around (30 st)

The next round will create the shoulder straps for the costume

R13: 5 SC, CH 13, SC in 2nd CH from hook and next 11 st. SC into same st as where you started the CH. 25 SC. CH 13, SC in 2nd CH from hook and next 11 st. SC in same st as where you started the CH. (56 st)

SL ST to next stitch and FO, leaving a long tail. Pin the costume to the body, with the attached side of the shoulder straps at the back. Pull the straps over the shoulders of the arms and pin to the front of the costume. With a needle, sew the top row of the costume in place, placing several stitches into the front of each strap to hold them in place. Finish sewing and weave in ends.

Skirt:

Turn the bear so the bottom is facing up, or away from you. See ‘other notes’ for how to make a standing DC.

In turquoise colour yarn:

R1: At back of the dress, make a standing DC followed by another DC in the same st. INC DC around (60 st)

 Attach to first ST with a SL ST, FO and weave in the ends.

Legs: (make 2)

In fur colour yarn:

R1: 6 SC in MR (6 st)

R2: INC SC (12 st)

R3-5: SC around (12 st)

R6: (4 SC, INV DEC) x2 (10 st)

Stuff at base of foot, and continue to lightly stuff up to halfway up the leg

R7: (3 SC, INV DEC) x2 (8 st)

R8-R11: SC around (8 st)

To close, pinch sides closed and 4 SC across through top of stitches of both sides. Finish off, leaving length of yarn.

Pin the legs to the base of the body and sew on. Make sure when sewing to go through both the costume and actual body so it is well secured. Weave in the ends.

Wings Notes:

As each of the 4 wing pieces are worked in the round with R2-3 worked in the BLO, there is a clear front and back to each piece. You can either leave these wings as single sided and sew together, OR make a double sided wing by crocheting two wing pieces together, with the backs of each touching.

For a thinner, slightly smaller set of wings, skip the numbered instructions and make one of each of the top and bottom wings. These wings will have a clear front and back, with the unworked front loop only visible on one side.

For a double-sided, slightly larger set of wings which are a bit sturdier (as pictured in the model), follow the order for making the wing pieces below. If you follow the order below, you will get 2 top and bottom wings with the slip stitch row facing the same way for the left and right.

  1. Complete Top Wing 1 and FO. Weave in the ends of the first tail. Complete Top Wing 2 but do NOT FO. Lay Top Wing 1 against Top Wing 2 so the front side of each wing faces outward. Connect the wings by SL ST around through the back loops of Top Wing 2 and the loops closest to you from Top Wing 1.  SL ST to the first ST and FO, weaving in the ends.
  2. Complete Top Wing 2 and FO. Weave in the ends. Complete Top Wing 1 but do NOT FO. Lay Top Wing 2 against Top Wing 1 so the outer side of each wing faces outward. Connect the wings by SL ST around through the back loops of Top Wing 1 and the loops closest to you from Top Wing 2. SL STFO, weaving in the ends.
  3. Complete Bottom Wing 1 and FO. Weave in the ends. Complete Bottom Wing 2 but do NOT FO. Lay Bottom Wing 1 against Bottom Wing 2 so the outer side of each wing faces outward. Connect the wings by SL ST around through the back loops of Bottom Wing 2 and the loops closest to you from Bottom Wing 1. FO, leaving a long tail.
  4. Complete Bottom Wing 2 and FO. Weave in the ends. Complete Bottom Wing 1 but do NOT FO. Lay Bottom Wing 2 against Bottom Wing 1 so the outer side of each wing faces outward. Connect the wings by SL ST around through the back loops of Bottom Wing 1 and the loops closest to you from Bottom Wing 2. FO, leaving a long tail.

Top Wing 1:

In yellow colour yarn:

R1: CH 7, skip 1st CH. 3 SC, HDC, INC HDC, 5 HDC into same stitch. Working around the other side of the CH, INC HDC, HDC, 2 SC, INC SC. (18 st)

R2: In the BLO, INC SC, 2 SC, HDC, INC HDC, 2 INC DC, DC, INC DC, DC, 2 INC DC, INC HDC, HDC, 2 SC, INC SC, SC (27 st)

Switch to Pink colour yarn:

R3: In the BLO, INC SC, 5 SC, INC HDC, HDC, INC HDC, 2 INC DC, INC TC, INC DC, DC, INC HDC, HDC, INC SC, 8 SC, INC SC, SC (37 st)

SL ST to the first ST of the last row.

Top Wing 2:

In yellow colour yarn:

R1: CH 7, skip 1st CH. 3 SC, HDC, INC HDC, 5 HDC into same stitch. Working around the other side of the CH, INC HDC, HDC, 2 SC, INC SC. (18 st)

R2: In the BLO, INC SC, 2 SC, HDC, INC HDC, 2 INC DC, DC, INC DC, DC, 2 INC DC, INC HDC, HDC, 2 SC, INC SC, SC (27 st)

Switch to Pink colour yarn:

R3: In the BLO, INC SC, 8 SC, INC SC, HDC, INC HDC, DC, INC DC, INC TC, 2 INC DC, INC HDC, HDC, INC HDC, 5 SC, INC SC, SC (37 st)

SL ST to the first ST of the last row.

Bottom Wing 1:

In yellow colour yarn:

R1: CH 6, skip 1st CH. 2 SC, HDC, INC HDC, 5 HDC into same stitch. Working around the other side of the CH, INC HDC, HDC, SC, INC SC (16 st)

Switch to Pink colour yarn:

R2: In the BLO, INC SC, SC, INC SC, HDC, INC HDC, 2 INC DC, DC, 2 INC HDC, INC SC, 3 SC, INC SC, SC (25 st)

SL ST to the first ST of the last row.

Bottom Wing 2:

In Yellow colour yarn:

R1: CH 6, skip 1st CH. 2 SC, HDC, INC HDC, 5 HDC into same stitch. Working around the other side of the CH, INC HDC, HDC, SC, INC SC (16 st)

Change to Pink colour yarn:

R2: In BLO, INC SC, 3 SC, INC SC, 2 INC HDC, DC, 2 INC DC, INC HDC, INC SC, 3 SC, INC SC, SC (25 st)

SL ST to the first ST of the last row.

Wing Centre:

In Blue colour yarn:

R1: CH 5 skip 1st CH. SC, HDC, INC HDC, 5 HDC into 1 stitch. Working around the other side of the CH, INC HDC, HDC, INC SC (14 st)

SL ST to first stitch of the previous row and FO, leaving a yarn tail.

Attaching Wings:

Using the leftover yarn tail from the bottom wings, sew together both pairs of top and bottom wings for the left and the right by laying the bottom wing slightly over top of the top wing (see picture below). You may want to sew more or less of the wing pieces together, depending on how you would like to shape your wings.

Next, sew the right and left wings together where the top/bottom wing pieces joined.

Now with the wing centre, attach it to cover the wing join and sew in place, with the smaller tip pointing upwards (see picture below).

Arm Straps: (make 2)

Before making the yarn straps, decide whether the upper arms of your bear will line up with the inner part of the upper wing or where the upper and lower wing join to determine what colour yarn to use. The model bear’s wings were attached at the join between the upper and lower wings so pink yarn was used for the straps.

To make the arm straps (x2) leave a 3 inch starting tail then CH 12 (depending on how tight your chain is, you may need to add an extra chain or two to make the strap long enough to wrap around the arm and connect to the wing). FO, leaving a yarn tail. Position your wings behind your bear and line the straps up with the upper arms, then sew the straps in place. Weave in the ends.

Thank you so much for making this pattern! If you run into any problems or have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me through Facebook or Instagram! Please remember to tag me @thecozychipmunk #thecozychipmunk so I can see your completed creation! You can also add this project to Ravelry!

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