My Bunny Valentine

My Bunny Valentine

‘My Bunny Valentine, sweet comic Valentine.’ Those are the lyrics, right? Valentine’s Day may fall right in the midst of February, but this Valentine’s bunny will keep your heart warm, even if it is frosty outside! She even has a little heart bag to tote around all of her love! With this bunny around, it will seem like every day is Valentine’s Day.

Difficulty: Advanced Beginner

U.S. Terminology

Stitches

Other Notes:

Magic Ring alternative- If you do not feel comfortable doing a magic ring, you can also chain 2 and work the indicated number of stitches into the first chain.

Continuous Rounds– Each row is completed in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated.

Dress Fitting– Depending on the type of yarn used (stiff vs. loose) and the way in which you complete your SC when making amigurumi (yarn over vs. yarn under), you may find that the dress fits a bit differently than the model. The dress is designed with a bit of extra overlap at the bottom to help with these variances. When sewing on the bottom button, pull the dress across the back until it sits as you like it before fastening. If you find after the first 2 rows that the dress seems too big, consider dropping a hook size.

Stitch Markers– The end stitches for some rows of the dress can be easy to miss, so I HIGHLY recommend marking them with stitch markers.

Modified Puff Stitch (MOD PUFF)– This modified puff will form the shape of the heart. To create, YO, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through 2 loops (2 loops left on hook). Repeat previous step ONCE (3 loops left on hook). Next, YO, but insert hook into the stitch 2 stitches away from where you started, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through 2 loops (4 loops left on hook). YO, insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through 2 loops (5 loops left on hook). YO once more, and draw the yarn through all the loops on the stitch. If you have trouble identifying the top of a completed puff stitch, it may be helpful to mark them as you make them, as they will be worked into in a subsequent row.

Modified Puff Stitch

2 HDC Puff Stitch- YO, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through 2 loops (2 loops left on hook). Repeat previous step (3 loops left on hook), then YO once more, pulling all 3 the loops on the stitch.

Colour Changes- When changing from one colour to another, in your final stitch in the final pull through before a colour change is warranted, switch to your new colour.

Pattern:

Dress:

(The dress is worked in ROWS, where the CH 1 or CH 2 at the beginning of a new row does not count as a stitch. Two button hole loops are made with CH 5, indicated in the pattern below. Depending on the size of buttons you use, you may need to increase/decrease the number of chains to fit around the buttons. When you get to this stage, check to make sure the loop fits around your button before continuing on)

In pink colour yarn:

R1: CH 32, CH additional 5 st, SL ST to 5th CH from hook to form loop (makes first button loop). Working across the rest of the starting chain: 4 SC, CH 5, skip 7 st, 10 SC, CH 5, skip 7 st, 4 SC (18 SC, 10 CH +5 CH loop)

R2: CH 1, turn. INC SC, 3 SC, 5 SC around 5 CH, 10 SC, 5 SC around 5 CH, 3 SC, INC SC (30 st)

R3: CH 1, turn. INC SC, 28 SC, INC SC (32 st)

Switch to red colour yarn.

R4: CH 2, turn. In FLO, HDC, CH 7, skip 6 st. (MOD PUFF. CH 7, skip 5 st) x2, MOD PUFF, CH 6, skip 5 st. 2 HDC PUFF (5 st + 27 CH)

Switch to pink colour yarn.

The following row will be working both into the unworked stitches of row 3, and the stitches from row 4 to fill in the gaps. Stitches working into row 3 are worked in BLO, while the stitches working into row 4 work into both loops. Please reference the included photos to help complete this row. When working on either side of the modified puff stitch, use a loose tension.

R5: CH 1, turn. SL ST into first st of R4.

(5 HDC into R3 working around the CH made in R4 (see Photo 1). HDC around the CH before the MOD PUFF, into the skipped stitch from R3 in the middle of the puff (see Photo 2 & 3). SL ST into top of MOD PUFF from R4. HDC around the CH after the MOD PUFF, back into the middle of the puff (See Photo 4). X 3

6 HDC into R3 working around the CH made in R3. Finally, SL ST into top of 2 HDC PUFF from R4. (32 st)

Puff out the MOD PUFF stitches so the heart shape is clear.

HDC Row instructions

R6: CH 1, turn. IN FLO, INC SC, 2 SC, INC SC, (3 SC, INC SC) x7 (41 st)

R7: CH 5, SL ST into 5th CH from hook (makes 2nd button hole), turn. (SC, skip 2 st, 3 INC3DC, skip 2 st) x5, SC (51 st)

If you feel that the dress is long enough, FO and weave in the ends. If you would like the dress to be longer, complete the next row.

R8. CH 1, turn. In FLO, SC across and FO. (51 st)

Weave in ends. The buttons will be placed on the dress once the bunny is fully constructed.

Valentine's Day Dress

Head:

In fur colour yarn:

R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)

R2: INC SC around (12 st)

R3: (SC, INC SC) x6 (18 st)

R4: (2 SC, INC SC) x6 (24 st)

R5: (3 SC, INC SC) x6 (30 st)

R6: (4 SC, INC SC) x6 (36 st)

R7-R13: SC around (36 st)

R14: (4 SC, INV DEC) x6 (30 st)

Place 10 mm eyes between R10 &11, 5 st apart. If you wish to sew on eyelashes, do not add washers to the back of the safety eyes yet! Remove the eyes once you like their placement, using embroidery thread, sew on two or three eyelashes for each eye, starting where the safety eyes will go and out on an angle. Make sure they are long enough otherwise they will be hidden by the eyes.

Reinsert the eyes and add washers to the back.

Using red, stitch a nose, running the needle through several times horizontally, in line with the eyes, and one time vertically, 2 rows down.

R15: (3 SC, INV DEC) x6 (24 st)

Start stuffing, making sure to stuff firmly

R16: (2 SC, INV DEC) x6 (18 st)

R17: (SC, INV DEC) x6 (12 st)

FO, and finish stuffing. Weave in ends.

Bunny Head

Ears: (make 2)

Using fur colour yarn:

R1: 5 MR (5 st)

R2: INC SC around (10 st)

R3: (4 SC, INC SC) x2 (12 st)

R4-R6: SC around (12 st)

R7: (4 SC, INV DEC) x2 (10 st)

R8-R11: SC around (10 st)

FO, leaving long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten ears and pinch base in half, sewing back and forth a few times. Pin to the top of the head, about 2-3 round from the top of the head and sew in place. Weave in ends.

Body:

In fur colour yarn:

R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)

R2: INC SC around (12 st)

R3: (SC, INC SC) x6 (18 st)

R4: (2 SC, INC SC) x6 (24 st)

R5: (3 SC, INC SC) x6 (30 st)

R6-10: (30 st)

R11: (3 SC, INV DEC) x6 (24 st)

R12: (2 SC, INV DEC) x6 (18st)

Start stuffing, and stuff subsequent rounds, checking to make sure that it is stuffed firmly enough that the dress fits!

R13: (SC, INV DEC) x6 (12 st)

R 14: SC around (12 st)

FO, leaving a long tail of yarn. Sew to the head and weave in the ends.

Arms: (make 2)

In fur colour yarn:

R1: 5 SC in MR (5 st)

R2: INC SC (10 st)

R3-R4: SC around (10 st)

R5: (3 SC, INV DEC) x2 (8 st)

Stuff tip of hand lightly

R6- R9: SC around (8 st)

To close, pinch sides closed and 4 SC across through top of stitches of both sides. FO, leaving length of yarn.

Place the dress around the body with the back held together to determine arm placement. Pin the arms in place and remove the dress. Sew arms to the body and weave in the ends.

Legs: (make 2)

In fur colour yarn:

R1: 6 SC in MR (6 st)

R2: INC SC (12 st)

R3-5: SC around (12 st)

R6: (4 SC, INV DEC) x2 (10 st)

Stuff at base of foot, and continue to lightly stuff up to halfway up the leg.

R7: (3 SC, INV DEC) x2 (8 st)

R8-R11: SC around (8 st)

To close, pinch sides closed and 4 SC across through top of stitches of both sides. Finish off, leaving length of yarn.

Pin the legs to the base of the body and sew on. Weave in the ends.

Tail:

In fur colour yarn:

R1: 4 SC in MR (4 st)

R2: INC SC x4 (8 st)

R3: (3 SC, INC SC) x2 (10 st)

R4: SC around (10 st)

SL ST to first stitch of previous round and FO. Lightly stuff if necessary and pin to the body in a position that will help the bunny sit up (around 2-3 rounds up from the base of the body). Sew the tail in place and weave in the ends.

Now, place the dress back on your completed bunny, and note where the button holes line up with the other side of the dress. Using yarn or thread, sew the two buttons in place and weave in the ends.

If you would like to add a heart bag and/or large heart pillow for your bunny, follow the steps below:

Small Heart:

The top of the heart is constructed in two pieces, labeled Top 1 and Top 2, which are then crocheted together.

In red colour yarn:

Top 1

R1: 4 SC into MR (4 st)

R2: INC SC x4 (8 st)

R3: SC around (8 st)

FO. Repeat above to make Top 2, without FO.

R4: In Top 2, 2 SC. Connect to Top 1 with a SC in the last stitch of the previous round, followed by 7 SC in the remaining st. Reconnect to Top 1, by SC into the 6 remaining st (16 st)

R5: (2 SC, INV DEC) x 4 (12 st)

R6: SC around (12 st)

R7: (SC, INV DEC) x 4 (8 st)

Stuff the heart.

R8: INV DEC x 4 (4 st)

FO, leaving a length of yarn, and with a needle, wip stitch in the FLO of each stitch, and pull tight to close. There may be a small gap in the heart between the two top portions. To close, weave your yarn up through the heart and sew this gap closed. Weave in ends.

Bag Straps

To make a side bag for your bunny, create a chain long enough to reach around the body of the bunny and connect to the heart, with enough slack to be able to slide it over the bunny’s head (the bag shown required CH 30). FO and connect both ends to the upper middle of the heart.

Side Bag

To make a backpack for your bunny, create 2 chains long enough to reach from the side of the heart, around the bunny’s arm, and reconnect to the heart in a position that you like (the bag shown required CH 18). FO and connect the ends. The backpack shown has the tops of the straps connected near the top of the heart, with the bottom of the straps connected closer to the bottom.

Backpack

Large Heart Pillow:

The top of the heart is constructed in two pieces, labeled Top 1 and Top 2, which are then crocheted together.

Top 1

R1: 4 SC in MR (4 st)

R2: INC SC x 4 (8 st)

R3: (SC, INC SC) x4 (12 st)

R4: SC around (12 st)

FO. Repeat above to make Top 2, without FO.

R5: In Top 2, 2 SC. Connect to Top 1 with a SC in the last stitch of the previous round, followed by 11 SC in the remaining st. Reconnect to Top 1, by SC into the 10 remaining st (24 st)

R6: SC around (24 st)

R7: (2 SC, INV DEC) x 6 (18 st)

R8: SC around (18 st)

R9: (SC, INV DEC) x 6 (12 st)

R10: SC around (12 st)

Stuff the heart

R11: INV DEC x 6 (6 st)

FO leaving a length of yarn, and with a needle, wip stitch in the FLO of each stitch, and pull tight to close. There may be a small gap in the heart between the two top portions. To close, weave your yarn up through the heart and sew this gap closed. Weave in the ends.

Thank you so much for making this pattern! If you run into any problems or have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me through Facebook or Instagram! Please remember to tag me @thecozychipmunk #thecozychipmunk so I can see your completed creation! Also, you can add this to your projects on Ravelry here!

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