The Irish name ‘Aisling’ (pronounced Ash-ling) means dream or vision. It has always been a dream of mine to design my own scarf pattern, and with the Gaelic look from the stitching, the name Aisling seemed like the perfect fit! The Aisling Scarf has a delicate look, but will keep your neck warm on the coldest of days! The repetitive nature of this scarf makes it easy to alter to your own personal sizing preferences in length and width, and looks lovely with thin and thicker yarns.
Continue below for the pattern, or purchase an Ad-Free PDF on Etsy or Ravelry.
Difficulty: Advanced Beginner
U.S. Terminology
Light Worsted Weight Sizing:
Length-70 inches, Width-5.5 inches
Gauge: 18 HDC x 13 rows= 4 inches squared
Regular Worsted Weight Sizing:
Length-78.5 inches, Width- 5.5 inches
Gauge: 16 HDC x 13 rows= 4 inches squared
Materials
- Hook: 4.5 mm ( I also like this 10 hook Clover set)
- Yarn: Thin Worsted Weight, approx. 470 yards ( I used Meandering Serpentine in Lavender from Loops and Threads) or Regular Worsted Weight, approx. 500 yards (Lion Brand Heartland works great as a regular worsted weight!)
- Needle
- Scissors
- Optional: Stitch Markers (highly recommended)
My Picks
Other Notes:
CH 1, CH 2, and CH 3– all count as the beginning stitch in each row. After chaining the correct number at the beginning of the row, skip a stitch before continuing with the pattern. The last stitch of each row works into the top of the starting chain of each previous row, so I highly recommend marking the top chain at the start of each row with a stich marker.
Foundational Half Double Crochet– this stitch omits the need for creating a starting chain. To create a FHDC, CH 3 (counts as first stitch), YO, insert hook through the first chain, YO and pull through (3 loops on hook). YO, and pull through the first (ONE) loop on your hook. This creates a foundational ‘chain’ stitch that you will work the subsequent FHDC into. When getting used to making this stitch, it can be helpful to mark it with a stitch marker until you are more comfortable with it. You will have 3 loops on your hook. YO, and pull through all loops on your hook. This completes the stitch.
*To make all additional FHDC, YO, insert hook into the foundational ‘chain’ stitch that you made in the last stitch, YO, and pull through (3 loops are on your hook). YO, and pull through ONE loop on your hook. This creates the foundational chain stitch. You will have 3 loops on your hook. YO, and pull through all loops on your hook.* Repeat between * * until you reach the total number of stitches indicated in the pattern, or your number of desired stitches if you plan to alter the length.
Video Tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjFyb8LJOzU
Bead Stitch- DC into the next stitch. *YO, and take your hook around the back of your DC post. YO, and bring hook back to front (3 loops left on hook)* Repeat between the * * twice more (7 loops on hook). YO and pull through first 6 loops on hook (2 loops left on hook). YO, and pull through remaining loops. Skip the next stitch to complete. Note-a loose tension can be beneficial for making this stitch
Video Tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDmwz6rUAMA
Crossed Double Crochet– This stitch is worked across 2 stitches. Skip the first stitch. DC in the second stitch. Go back to the skipped stitch and DC, around the DC you just created. This will create a crossed stitch effect.
Sizing– Final measurements are an estimation and can vary based on yarn choice, tension, etc. Please make sure to refer to the gauges listed at the top of the pattern. Alterations to match gauge can change the total amount of yarn required to complete the pattern.
Customization- This pattern can be easily customized to be made larger or smaller based on your taste! The length of the scarf can be increased or decreased to any length, but make sure you use an even number of stitches! To increase or decrease the width of the scarf, add or remove repeats of the R4/5, making sure to finish on a R4 before completing the last 3 rows. The bead stitch will shorten up the length of the scarf, so when you make your FHDC row, make it 10-15% longer than your desired length to accommodate for the ‘shortening’ that will occur!
Stiffness- If your scarf is stiff due to the nature of the yarn you are using, steaming it will help loosen the fibers up!
Pattern:
CH 1, CH 2 and CH 3 all count as the first stitch in a new row.
R1: 300 FHDC across (300 st)
R2: CH 3, turn. 149 Bead Stitches across. DC in final stitch (149 Bead Stitches, 2 DC)
R3. CH 2, turn. HDC across, working the final HDC into the top of the CH 3 of the previous row (300 stitches)
R4: CH 3, turn. 149 CDC across. DC in final stitch, which is the top of the CH 2 of the previous row. (149 CDC, 2 DC)
R5: CH 1, turn. SC across, working the final SC into the top of the CH 3 of the previous row (300 stitches)
R6-14: Repeat R4 and R5, finishing on a R4.
R15: CH 2, turn. HDC across, working the final HDC into the top of the CH 3 of the previous row (300 stitches)
R16: CH 3, turn. 149 Bead Stitches across. DC in final stitch (149 Bead Stitches, 2 DC)
R17: CH 2, turn. HDC across, working the final HDC into the top of the CH 3 of the previous row (300 stitches)
FO, leaving a long tail. Weave in the ends.
Thank you so much for making this pattern! If you run into any problems or have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me through Facebook or Instagram! Please remember to tag me @thecozychipmunk #thecozychipmunk so I can see your completed creation!
