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Witch Bunny

thecozychipmunk

Trick or Treat! Just in time for Halloween, Witch Bunny has arrived to put a smile on your face, and help collect candy for your tummy! Unlike some of her witchy predecessors from books and movies, Witch Bunny promises she’s all treat and zero tricks. ‘Witching’ you a very Happy Halloween!

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Difficulty: Advanced Beginner

U.S. Terminology

Size: 6.5 inches seated from the top of the ears down

Materials

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Other Notes:

Magic Ring alternative- If you do not feel comfortable doing a magic ring, you can also chain 2 and work the indicated number of stitches into the first chain.

Back Loop Only– The pattern requires you to work in the back loop only in several places and later add additional pieces to the front loops. The first unworked loops can be hard to see working in a dark colour so using a stitch marker on the first unworked front loop of a row may be helpful.

Continuous Rounds– Each row is completed in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated.

Invisible Decrease– This decreasing stitch helps to prevent gaping holes when making your amigurumi. If you do not feel comfortable doing an invisible decrease you can single crochet two together (SC2TOG) instead. Check out this great blog post on creating an Invisible Decrease.

Witch Hat Shaping– If you wish, you can use floral wiring if you wish to make a stiff brim. Do not use wire if you are giving the bunny to a child. The witch bunny shown on the title page does not have wire included in the hat.

Skirt-Free Option– If you would like to make a boy or skirt-free version of the bunny, in R7 of the body, work the stitches in both loops instead of the BLO and skip the skirt instructions.

Picot Stitch– This stitch is done to make the shells on the cape come to a point. To make a picot, CH 3, then SL St into the first ST.

Colour Change– When changing from one colour to another, in your final SC stitch after you have 2 loops on your hook, pull through with your new colour. In the next stitch of the next row, a SL ST is worked as it creates a more seamless colour change that is not as obvious.

Pattern:

Witch Hat:

If you want to make a stiff brim, when you get to R23, complete your stitches around a piece of floral wire, making sure to hide the wire well. Remember that if this is for a child, do NOT use wire!

In purple colour yarn:

R1: 5 SC in MR (5 st)

R2: 4 SC, INC SC (6 st)

R3: SC around (6 st)

R4: (2 SC, INC SC) x2 (8 st)

R5: SC around (8 st)

R6: (SC, INC SC) X4 (12 st)

R7: SC around (12 st)

R8: (2 SC, INC SC) x4 (16 st)

R9: SC around (16 st)

 R10: (3 SC, INC SC) x4 (20 st)

R11-12: SC around (20 st)

R13: (4 SC, INC SC) x4 (24 st)

R14: SC around (24 st)

R15: SC, CH6, skip 4 st, 8 SC, CH 6, skip 4 st, 7 SC (16 SC, 12 CH)

R16: SC, 7 SC around CH, 6 SC, INC SC, SC, 7 SC around CH, 6 SC, INC SC (32 st)

R17: (7 SC, INC SC) x4 (36 st)

R18-19: SC around (36 st)

R20: in FLO, (5 SC, INC SC) x 6 (42 st)

R21: 3 SC, INC SC (6 SC, INC SC) x 5, 3 SC (48 st)

R22: (INC SC, 7 SC) x 6 (54 st)

R23: 4 SC, INC SC (8 SC, INC SC) x 5, 4 SC (60 st)

R24: SL ST around (60 st)

SL ST to the first ST of the previous row and FO, weaving in the ends. If you wish you can attach a piece of ribbon around R18-19 before where the brim starts.

Hold off on adding any embellishments such as ribbon to the witch hat until later (at least until after you have constructed the head and ears) to ensure it sits properly.

Head:

In fur colour yarn:

R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)

R2: INC SC around (12 st)

R3: (SC, INC SC) x6 (18 st)

R4: (2 SC, INC SC) x6 (24 st)

R5: (3 SC, INC SC) x6 (30 st)

R6: (4 SC, INC SC) x6 (36 st)

R7-R13: SC around (36 st)

R14: (4 SC, INV DEC) x6 (30 st)

Place 10 mm eyes between R10 &11, 5 st apart. If you wish to sew on eyelashes, do not add washers to the back of the safety eyes yet! Remove the eyes once you like their placement, using embroidery thread, sew on two or three eyelashes for each eye, starting where the safety eyes will go and out on an angle. Make sure they are long enough otherwise they will be hidden by the eyes.

Reinsert the eyes and add washers to the back.

Using white, stitch a nose, running the needle through several times horizontally, in line with the eyes, and one time vertically, 2 rows down.

R15: (3 SC, INV DEC) x6 (24 st)

Start stuffing, making sure to stuff firmly

R16: (2 SC, INV DEC) x6 (18 st)

R17: (SC, INV DEC) x6 (12 st) FO, and finish stuffing, weaving in the ends .

Ears: (make 2)

Using fur colour yarn:

R1: 5 MR (5 st)

R2: INC SC around (10 st)

R3: (4 SC, INC SC) x2 (12 st)

R4-R6: SC around (12 st)

R7: (4 SC, INV DEC) x2 (10 st)

R8-R11: SC around (10 st)

FO, leaving long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten ears and pinch base in half, sewing back and forth a few times. Temporarily place the Witch Hat on the bunny head in a position you like, pinning one ear at a time in place through the earhole of the hat. Remove the hat and sew the ear in place. Repeat with the second ear. Weave in ends.

Body:

In purple colour yarn:

R1: 6 SC into MR (6 st)

R2: INC SC around (12 st)

R3: (SC, INC SC) x6 (18 st)

R4: (2 SC, INC SC) x6 (24 st)

R5: (3 SC, INC SC) x6 (30 st)

R6: SC around (30 st)

R7: In BLO, SC around (30 st)

Switch to black colour yarn.

R8-R10: SC around (30 st)

R11: (3 SC, INV DEC) x6 (24 st)

R12: (2 SC, INV DEC) x6 (18 .st)

Start stuffing, and stuff subsequent rounds.

R13: (SC, INV DEC) x6 (12 st)

R 14: SC around (12 st)

FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Skirt:

The CH 1 does not count as a stitch. Do NOT turn at the end of the row.

If you would like to make the ends of the skirt pointy instead of curved, you can add a picot stitch in R4 to line up with the HDC stitches from R3.

In black colour yarn:

With the bottom of the bunny facing away from you, reattach the yarn to the unworked front loops from R7 and CH 1.

R1: (2 SC, INC SC) x10 (40 st) Connect to first ST with a SL ST

R2: CH 1. (4 SC, INC) x8 (48 st). Connect to first ST with a SL ST

R3: CH 1. (SC, skip 2 st, {2 DC, HDC, 2 DC}, skip 2 st) x8 (48 st) Connect to first ST with a SL ST

Switch to purple colour yarn.

R4: In the BLO, SL ST around (48 st)

FO and weave in the ends.

Sew the completed body to the head and weave in the ends

Arms: (make 2)

The CH 2 for the sleeves does NOT count as a stitch.

In fur colour yarn:

R1: 5 SC in MR (5 st)

R2: INC SC (10 st)

Switch to black yarn

R3: SC around (10 st)

R4: In BLO, SC around (10 st)

R5: (3 SC, INV DEC) x2 (8 st)

Stuff tip of hand lightly

R6- R9: SC around (8 st)

To close, pinch sides closed and 4 SC across through top of stitches of both sides. FO, leaving length of yarn.

Reattach black colour yarn to unworked front loops of R4 and CH 2, then HDC in all stitches around. SL ST to the first HDC and FO, weaving in the ends.  (10 st)

Pin the arms to each side of the body (2-3 rows down from the head) and sew in place. Weave in the ends.

Legs: (make 2)

In purple colour yarn:

R1: 6 SC in MR (6 st)

R2: INC SC (12 st)

R3-5: SC around (12 st)

R6: (4 SC, INV DEC) x2 (10 st)

Stuff at the base of foot, and continue to lightly stuff up to halfway up the leg.

R7: (3 SC, INV DEC) x2 (8 st)

R8-R11: SC around (8 st)

To close, pinch sides closed and 4 SC across through top of stitches of both sides. Finish off, leaving length of yarn. Pin the legs to the base of the body and sew on. Weave in the ends.

Cape:

When starting your chain, leave a decent sized tail. You will use this as one of the ends of the ties for making the bow. If you wish the edges of your cape to be smooth and not pointed, simply omit the picot stitch.

CH 1 does not count as a stitch.

In purple colour yarn:

R1: CH 21, SC in 2nd CH from hook and SC across (20 st)

R2: CH 1, turn. SC2TOG, (SC, INC SC) x7, 2 SC, SC2TOG (25 st)

R3: CH 1, turn. SC2TOG, (2 SC, INC SC) x7, SC2TOG (30 st)

R4: CH 1, turn. SC2TOG, (3 SC, INC) x6, 2 SC, SC2TOG (34 st)

R5: CH 1, turn. SC2TOG, (4 SC, INC) x6, SC2TOG (38 st)

R6: CH 1, turn. SC2TOG, (skip 2 st, {2 DC, HDC, Picot, 2 DC} skip 2 st, SL ST) x 6 (38 st)

To make the edges of the cape smooth, SC up the side of the cape, along the neck and back down the other side, stopping where you started R7, making sure to add 2-3 SC in each corner. Finish off and weave in ends.

Take another piece of yarn and attach it to the corner missing a yarn tail to make the second tie. Weave in any extra ends.

Tie the ends of the cape around the neck of your bunny and trim the yarn so that the ends are a length that you like.

Embellishments:

If you haven’t already, add any additional embellishments to your bunny. This could include sparkly buttons, embroidered stars on the cape, bows or ribbons. If you want to add a ribbon around the base of the brim (around R18-19) put the hat on the bunny first to check how long your piece of ribbon needs to be (the hat stretches a bit to sit firmly on the head).

If you don’t want the hat to be removable, you can sew it in place on the head using the unworked back loops from R20.

Thank you so much for making this pattern! If you run into any problems or have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me through Facebook or Instagram! Please remember to tag me @thecozychipmunk #thecozychipmunk so I can see your completed creation!

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